Uganda Rwanda Tanzania



Visa obtained at the border without any issues

Sipi Falls

  • there are several places to camp, all have nice views over to the falls and there isn’t an awful lot to differentiate between them
  • we spent the morning walking around the falls and paid about 20,000 USh for the two of us. A word of warning – initially a local guide had told us that we needed to pay Mt Elgon park fees to access the falls but we soon found out this isn’t the case so make sure you quickly lose any guides that tell you such.


  • Nile River Explorers is definitely as noisy as the books make out but it’s also a lovely setting over looking the Nile
  • Food is pretty expensive for what you get in our opinion
  • From Nile River Explorers you can organise rafting or Tandem Kayaking with Kayak the Nile – we totally recommend the Kayaking, the guides are absolutely amazing and you get such a more full on experience from sitting in the bottom of the waves

Fort Portal

  • Lake Nyabikere –“The Lake of Frogs” is very nice,  CVS Campsite has lovely views overlooking the lake and the local owners were extremely friendly
  • You can do some walks around the lake without a guide which makes for a good change

Rwenzori Mountains

  • we drove up to the Ruboni Community Camp just outside the park which is a bit more basic than our guidebook made out
  • we opted for the morning hill walk to get a good view of the mountains without doing days of hiking and paying to enter the park. The walk was pretty strenuous and steep with lots of loose soil underfoot, however the views from the top and walking past all the local villagers working on the steep terraces made for a nice little trip

Queen Elizabeth National Park

  • Queen Elizabeth Bush camp is a really nice tented camp that allow you to camp for $10 per person. This may sound a little expensive but it’s a lovely location and we were woken up by the hippos munching on the grass outside our tent
  • The can also arrange for a car to take you into the park at a cost of $100 per day. We teamed up with some other overlanders which worked nicely in saving some serious cash compared to the extortionate cost of taking a foreign registered vehicle into the park at $150

Lake Bunyoni

  • beautiful lake and totally recommend driving along the north shore towards Kisoro as it’s stunning


  • We ultimately decided to save our cash but this is the place to get gorilla permits if you don’t want to book up loads in advance. Currently the gorillas on the Ugandan side of the border and therefore you can get permits really easily Maghinga Forest
  • We didn’t go ourselves but heard good things from some friends about Mutanda Eco Community Centre just outside Kisoro


Visa – not required for UK citizens


  • Urumuri hotel was good value at 10,000 RwFr

Kibuye, Lake Kivu

  • Lake Kivu is beautiful and Home St Jean a great place to stay with lovely views, again for 10,000 RwFr
  • We did pop up to Hotel Centre Bethanie but it was quite a resort from what we expected and pretty expensive
  • The road south down the lake towards Cynagugu is stunning, mostly dirt although the Chinese have been busy as you near the main road to Cynagugu

Nyungwe National Park

  • Beautiful scenery even from the road
  • The headquarters are located at Uwinka Reception S2 28.672 E29 11.985 but we found you can only arrange hikes on the coloured trails from this point
  • If you’re interested in chimp trekking you need to go to Gisakura in the West of the park GPS S02, 25.503, N 29, 04.364
  • We went chimp trekking although food was scarce in January which made them very hard to find so it may be worth checking this with the office before you decide to go for it
  • The resthouse in Gisakura is expensive, I think they’ve hiked up the prices as it may seem like the only option when you have to get up at 5 to see the chimps
  • We drove down the road for a couple of kilometres and found a great little guesthouse, Amacumbi Lodge GPS S02, 26.427 E029, 05.535. It was basic but clean and the owner Monica could not have been more welcoming, at only 6,000 RwFr it’s definitely worth checking out


  • We had heard not great things about One Love and instead stayed at Discover Rwanda Youth Hostel GPS – GPS S1, 57.038 E30, 05.615


Visa – we got these in advance from embassy in Kampala


  • Kiroyera Campsite is in a lovely location on the beach, right next to the lake
  • The bathrooms are pretty basic but the people are really welcoming and there’s a little guy – Philoman in a shack, next to the restaurant who cooked us up a great fish dinner


  • We had an overnight stop to break up the journey to Tarangerie and stayed at a good cheap little hotel – Forest Guest House, GPS S04,12.652, E 033,10.814 . The food was really good there too


  • we stayed at Zion camp, nothing spectacular but it’s near the park. They wanted to charge $10 per person but if you say you’re going to look elsewhere then they’ll probably knock it down to 10,000 USh like they did for us
  • the beers are also pricey and warm so try and take some of your own!


  • after driving up to Coffee Tree Campsite and the site being all locked up with went to Kibo Hotel, a really quirky little place with it’s old fashioned appearance, you can camp for $5 per person

Usumbarra Mountains

  • Irente Biodiversity Reserve near Lushoto is a fantastic place to say (7,000Ush per person), really quiet with views looking down at all the local countryside
  • The food you can buy in the shop is delicious and we wished we’d bought more cheese, museli and mango chutney :o)
  • Mambo View Lodge is also very much recommended, $5 each a night. A Dutch couple have set up an Eco Lodge on the top of a 1000m cliff and all around the lodge are the most spectacular views. It’s a fantastic place to chill out for a few days with some walking or cycling in between
  • As well as the great lodge Marion and Herman seem to be running lots of local projects from road building, teaching local ladies to make cheese, improving local schools etc etc. You can see a lot more on their website

Tanga/ Pangani

  • Peponis’ is a lovely beachside campsite with bandas which is extremely relaxing and worth a stop
  • You can also take a short dhow trip out to the neighbouring reef which was a enjoyable excursion
  • We also recommend popping next door to Capricorn for a fantastic pizza, served 1-5 only

Udzungwa Mountains

  • Hondo Hondo is a lovely place to stay with a stunning bar/ restaurant area looking up at the mountains – GPS – S7 50.090 E36 53.394

Note – I have only added GPS points that I haven’t found in Tracks for Africa

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s